Thursday, April 14, 2011

Ethical, Eternal yet Ethnic


Apart from meeting them in local bazaar, whenever I traveled by a Mumbai Local in an odd hour I bumped into them. They never bothered about the surrounding and mostly engrossed to each other. Sometime they are busy with their delicious looking homemade food. They were none other than a bunch of fisherwomen, a familiar face from any Mumbai’s fish market.

While studying Computer, my class timing was seven in the morning, the distance I had to cover was from I.I.T to Flora Fountain (now it is Hutatma Chowk). It took around one and half hour to reach my college. When I used to leave my home it was dark and most peoples around me still sleeping, as Mumbai goes to sleep well after mid-night. I was late only once that too not my fault, the train was running late. Early morning trains were not that crowded but you will never find an empty compartment at any given hour, not even the Ladies compartments. After finding a place to sit, for obvious reason, early morning breeze and the lack of sleep I always found myself sleeping. When the train reached the destination V.T. (now C.S.T) most of the days I was still sleeping and then every time I woke up with a huge pat on my shoulder and with same dialog ‘ut go, istation ali. parat janar kai?’ (Get up, last station is here, want to go back). These alarm clocks never left me behind, it was very reliable and dedicated. Those were the bunch of fisherwomen, on their way to Colaba to purchase fish.

The Mumbai’s very own fisherwomen, bold, beautiful, vicious yet friendly. They belong to ‘Koli’ community. Most of the market in Mumbai you will find women selling fish and it is not their husband they only travel early morning and late afternoon to Colaba for the fresh stock. One thing that other women or even my friends were envious about them, it was their gold ornaments. The neck-wear itself may cost around fifty thousand. I had no fascination for yellow metal but I too eying something that was their food, most of the day they used to have their lunch in train, it looked delicious, yummy.

Mumbai’s original inhabitants are East Indian or East Indians are a Marathi-speaking, Roman Catholic ethnic group, based in and around the city of Mumbai. These people are of the original Marathi ethnic group and had been evangelized by the Portuguese, while retaining much of their pre-Christian traditions. They are the most non controversial people of Mumbai. Once every fish market were ruled by the East Indian fisherwoman, now you will find a very few East Indian fisherwoman. It is not long ago that the whole Vikhorli was belongs to this community before Godrej bought it. Leave alone the fishing business, now these days you can hardly see any East Indian in Mumbai.

Koli is the language spoken by Kolis in Mumbai. Marathi is another language spoken by Agri-Koli in the interior parts of Mumbai. It is a mixture of Marathi, Sanskrit, Hindi, English and Kannada language. The Koli community has its own distinct identity and lively dances. The dance incorporates elements that this community is most familiar with - sea and fishing. The dance is performed by both men and women divided into two groups, where fishers stand in two rows holding oars in their hands.

After monsoon break, then come the ‘Narali punaw’, as per traditions Kolis know that after this day the wind strength and direction changes in favour of fishing. This is the day when Kolis celebrate the kick off of new business season. This is the day when they pray to the sea God and make puja of their boats and begins their fishing season. They break coconut and often offer a golden coconut to the sea God.

Recent past things changed for modern days fisherwomen. A plush conference room in a leading luxury hotel is an unusual meeting venue for a group of fisherwomen. However, these are no ordinary fisherwomen. They are members of Fish Suppliers, a self-help group based in a fishing village in Mahim, a suburb of Mumbai. They supply fish to three Taj group hotels in Mumbai — the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, the Taj President and Taj Lands End. Last year, they registered a turnover of Rs30 lakh. In addition, they have just bagged an annual contract for the current year worth Rs1 crore. These Macchiwalis are itself a total package, they are the lioness of Mumbai.

!!!It is not a mere Fishy affair, it is colossal!!!

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